It’s been almost two months for me now in Bombay and while I am indulging in the bitter-sweet taste of independence, struggle and freedom of the city, my biggest qualm still remains to be food! The food here is just abysmal! Coming from a city which is known for its food and thus having a very particular tongue for taste, I almost always find myself in the search of that perfect Bengali thali. Even my Instagram and YouTube algorithms now suggest me nothing but food videos. The situation clearly has gotten out of hands- it is that bizzare! Anyway, one evening while randomly scrolling through the different videos, I came across something known as the “ Pice Hotels” in Kolkata. Before this I’ve never even heard about them. A little more extensive search revealed that these kind of hotels have been there for quite a long time.
So, what are these pice hotels? They are authentic Bengali eating houses, established anything between fifty and hundred years ago. These unpretentious eateries are often hidden away in narrow allies, serving flavoursome meals to the hungry office-goer or the “on-budget” college student at fairly unbelievable prices. They are Calcutta’s best kept culinary secret. The Marxists did one thing right in the city where almost nothing is ever right- delicious food at super cheap prices! The concept started in the era when things were available in paisa and a full meal would cost the same. Thus the name, “paisa-hotel”/ “pice hotel”!
Now, moving on to the menus of these hotels, they change regularly depending on the availability of the type of fish or vegetables in the market. The moment you step in through the door, you notice the handwritten chalked menu on the board, the manager seated on a slightly elevated platform right beside it. The walls behind him are adorned with pictures of gods and goddesses often contributing to the fuss-free style of the place. For more authenticity, most of these hotels still serve the food on “kashar thala” (copper plated utensils) with a banana leaf on top. Before you could read out the entire menu, the friendly waiter would come with a face full of smile and ask you, “Aj ki neben, rui?” (What will you have today, rohu?) even if they have never ever seen you before. That’s the level of homeliness they intend to make you feel. But in case if you are a frequent customer, they will bring you your customized thali even before you could utter a word. Some parallel world Starbucks, right?
Apart from these, there are two things: you cannot ask for a table all by yourself or you might get shoved out from the place and the more you tip the waiter, the more choice you get in personalizing your piece of succulent mutton or fish the next time.
To conclude, pice hotels are almost a part of the city’s heritage now. Though the millennial generations are flocking more towards the cafe culture, these hotels are still managing strong and the secret lies in the variety of offer, the price and most importantly the homemade ambience. The pice hotels of Calcutta continue to thrive in their secret corners, satisfying the tongues and stomachs of hundreds who hustle on a daily basis without asking costing their arms and legs.



